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Lens Cleaning at SSC?; Will they and can they clean Minolta G?
Topic Started: Mar 3 2008, 10:36 PM (2,579 Views)
tankm
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Always Newbie
alpha-ming9866
Mar 4 2008, 12:58 PM
Hi Mr Tankm , i had chosen these 4 photos because they are taken at different settings . I also tried CAF , but it does work ...

Good points you had stated here & i believed its all my fault ... Anyway the pony don't move so fast but my kids are like jumping on the pony ! <_<

I expected this lens to be FAST & SHARP ... Expectations to high on a high $ lens ... :sweat: And the owner don't know how to use , so far i think i only used it 5-6 times . :P

I won't use the word "FAST" here cause you seem to have different interpretation of "FAST LENS".

The lens is only BRIGHT if you are using it at wide aperture. You are shooting at f5.6 and f8, hence you are not using the wide aperture capability of this lens. Could have tried using the aperture at f2.8, f3.5 and f4 as well. Can bump the ISO higher as well on the A700.

If your kid is jumping up and down then subject motion blur is a factor to consider as well, you will definitely need higher shutter speed to "freeze" their motion or be creative go slower to capture "subject motion".

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Ming
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90609866
Sorry Mr Tankm , still have not fully understand the term between FAST & BRIGHT ... :wacko: :blink:

Now i recalled when i was shooting , there is a moment of lagged just like the shuttle is too slow because i was in A mode , there was a few when i switched to S mode and shoot at 1/200 , but picture come out dark ... So i stick to A mode again .

Next week when i go again , i try to shoot , again .
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tankm
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alpha-ming9866
Mar 4 2008, 01:15 PM
Sorry Mr Tankm , still have not fully understand the term between FAST & BRIGHT ... :wacko: :blink:

Now i recalled when i was shooting , there is a moment of lagged just like the shuttle is too slow because i was in A mode , there was a few when i switched to S mode and shoot at 1/200 , but picture come out dark ... So i stick to A mode again .

Next week when i go again , i try to shoot , again .

when you shoot at "S"hutter priority, is the aperture blinking ? If it's it means the camera cannot set a bright enough aperture to get a right exposure. You then have the following options:
a. Shoot at lower shutter speed
b. Change to aperture mode and select the aperture you want
c. Still at "S" mode, bump up the ISO.
d. Change to "P"rofessional Mode or "AUTO". This is a savior for me in some occasion, where I'm in a hurry and no time to change settings and do not want to miss the shot.
e. Use fill flash

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Trigger Happy
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Ming, when you use CAF, try to use spot AF to ensure you know what you're locking onto in the first place. as bro Tankm has pointed out, from your exif info, f/5.6 and f/8 will drastically reduce your shutter speed.

just remember this - with smaller apertures you gain sharpness but lose depth of field (DOF) and shutter speed. thats why f/2.8 lenses cost more, mainly because of DOF and the higher shutter speed. yes, at 100mm, if shutter speed is < 1/100 sec then you are LIKELY to get camera shake or more likely, subject motion blur. that said, if you have steady hands, and shoot a static object like a lamp-post. then you may even get away with a 1 sec exposure. i know of ppl who have super steady hands and can handhold for up to almost 2 sec w/o shake. :kowtow:
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Clem
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There are two aspects to consider when taking a sharp picture:

1. Camera shakes.

As a rule of thumb, in order to have a sharp picture, the relationship of focal length to speed for 35mm format should be 1/focal length.

E.g. for 200mm, it should be 1/200 as pointed out by Trigger Happy. However, your effective focal length for 1.5 crop now is 300mm, so it should be 1/300. With the aid of SSS, assuming a two to 3 stop effectiveness, you should be able to get away with 1/80 to 1/125. This is all based on the assumptions that your subject is not moving and you have a reasonable steady hand. So your mileage may differ.

2. Subject Movement.

If you subject is moving, it will complicate the situation as you would now have to consider what speed will be needed to freeze the action. No hard and fast rule here. Trial and error is your best friend here as it all depend on how fast your subject is moving. And also, the more the subject fill your frame, the faster the speed you’ll have to use as the movement is exaggerated as you move in or zoom in closer.
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Ming
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90609866
:faint: Looks like there are very much more to learn before holding up my 70-200mm again ... :sweat:

Thank you to Mr Tankm , Bro Clem & Trigger .

Any way to test whether my hand got hand shake or not ... ? :unsure: I only know when i am hungry , my hand will shake ... <_<
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tankm
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alpha-ming9866
Mar 4 2008, 03:10 PM
:faint: Looks like there are very much more to learn before holding up my 70-200mm again ... :sweat:

Thank you to Mr Tankm , Bro Clem & Trigger .

Any way to test whether my hand got hand shake or not ... ? :unsure: I only know when i am hungry , my hand will shake ... <_<

That's easy. Shoot something that don't move in your house. Try various shutter speed and see how slow a shutter you manage.
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Ming
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90609866
Yes Sir ! Will try that out .
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way2see
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Alpha Commander Member
halo... people...
you all very bad leh...

TS asking for advice on servicing on minolta lens, you guys go out of point liao...

opps... I'm the TS!?! hee hee... :neener:
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Quiet please... Let the picture tell its story...
way2see.sg
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tankm
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psccy
Mar 6 2008, 03:42 PM
halo... people...
you all very bad leh...

TS asking for advice on servicing on minolta lens, you guys go out of point liao...

opps... I'm the TS!?! hee hee... :neener:

ok lah, to answer your question. they do lens cleaning as well. You can always send your lens in for quotation . :whistle:
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