Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
We hope you enjoy your visit.


You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are some features you can't use. If you join our community, you'll be able to access member-only sections, and use many member-only features such as customizing your profile, sending personal messages, and voting in polls. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free.

Remember to visit our welcome thread here: Member Welcome Thread

Join our community!

*Flashing News*Email trigger on Alphadslr forum is now working.

To setup the email trigger for your account:
Just go to preference, select "Email & Subscription Settings" and Topic/Forum subscription alert type as "Alerts by email"..

For thread tracking, you need to manually enable it for each thread. Once you're viewing a thread, scroll down to the bottom of the page. Locate the option "Track Topic" which appears to the left of the Board Time.

From the page that loads you can select the notification type you want.




Username:   Password:
Add Reply
How to keep camera still?
Topic Started: Apr 13 2008, 10:16 AM (1,045 Views)
Zapper
Member Avatar
Infrequent Shooter
Hi guys

Just wondering how you guys keep the camera still while taking pictures? My pictures a bit blurred, esp when using VF. On LV its ok. Will the battery grip improve stability. Right now, with my 18-250mm, seems like the lens heavier than the camera. Should it be the other way round?

Also, how do I speed up my shots while still using the Super Steady Shot feature? I take 2-4 sec to minimise the SSS bar before shooting...not very good leh. Subject may become impatient with me :lol:

Cheers
Posted Image
My Gallery
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
weishengg
Member Avatar
Alpha Elite Member
i'll offer all that i know about this:

1) use tripod

2) use monopod

3) tuck your hands/elbows into your body for stability

4) i find that when i press my eyes against the viewfinder too hard (it usually happens when i wear glasses), i tend to shake the camera more. maybe try experimenting this for yourself?

5) lean against a wall or other form of supports

6) use bean bag to support the lens

7) use a bigger aperture so that you can use a faster shutter speed

8) use higher ISO so that you can use a faster shutter speed (my last resort usually, because I use a100 and the noise at >iso800 is just :scary: )

9) i learnt this from a magazine.
If you're using a long zoom (maybe >135mm), hold your slr+zoom lens on your right hand only.
Put your right hand into a Mr Muscleman flexes his biceps position, i.e. upper and lower arm perpendicular.
Stick out your left hand, and use it to hold onto your right elbow from the outside.
Your upper left arm and lower left arm should both be parallel to the ground at this point of time if you get my drift.
Now twist down your right arm using your right elbow as the pivot point, and rest the lens barrel onto your left biceps, or your left elbow, whichever more comfortable.
Of course, with your left hand still gripping on to your right elbow.


I hope you get what i mean :P this is what i do when i shoot telephoto and just cant seem to get the camera stabilized even with SSS on. it works for me! Altthough there are usually some discomfort with all that twists at the joints going on B)
weishengg.blogspot.com
Snap away!
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
yk200
Member Avatar
Alpha Elite Member
maybe it will be better to share some pic that u took with camera setup then we see how to improve from there. ;)
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Ming
Member Avatar
90609866
Do not know how shaky you meant , but you can read something from HERE which we had discussed some time ago .

Cannot always rely on the SSS form Alpha , it don't works the way you expect it to be . There are other factors you have to check carefully which will caused blur photos ... May not be yourself , or the camera , could be with the lens you are using .
Ask ... Absorb ... Equip ... Execute
N E X with M I N G HERE ! A P - Ming HERE ! Macro-Ming HERE ! Pano-Ming HERE ! Food ! Food ! Foods ! HERE
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Zapper
Member Avatar
Infrequent Shooter
Thanks for the inputs guys.

Here is one picture. Some pointers given by my friend - Shutter speed should be at least 1/60 (for shaky hands) or 1/30 (for steady hands). Noted the point about focusing on the model face.

Posted Image

Here are the details

Camera: Sony DSLR-A350
Exposure: 0.05 sec (1/20)
Aperture: f/4
Focal Length: 30 mm
ISO Speed: 400
Exposure Bias: 0/10 EV
Flash: Flash did not fire

Image Description: SONY DSC
Orientation: Horizontal (normal)
X-Resolution: 72 dpi
Y-Resolution: 72 dpi
Software: Adobe Photoshop CS3 Windows
Date and Time: 2008:04:12 17:53:53
YCbCr Positioning: Co-Sited
Exposure Program: Aperture priority
Date and Time (Original): 2008:04:12 13:25:29
Date and Time (Digitized): 2008:04:12 13:25:29
Compressed Bits per Pixel: 8 bits
Brightness: 137/100
Maximum Lens Aperture: 400/100
Metering Mode: Center Weighted Average
Color Space: sRGB
Focal Length In 35mm Film: 45
Compression: JPEG
Caption/Abstract: SONY DSC
Image Width: 683 pixels
Image Height: 1024 pixels

Posted Image
My Gallery
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Ming
Member Avatar
90609866
Is it 1/20 ? What i see the still surroundings are fine , maybe the model is moving a bit that caused the blur ... :huh:
Ask ... Absorb ... Equip ... Execute
N E X with M I N G HERE ! A P - Ming HERE ! Macro-Ming HERE ! Pano-Ming HERE ! Food ! Food ! Foods ! HERE
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
zcf
Alpha Elite Member
In the photo show, it does seem like the model is moving, to capture a moving subject, you need a faster shutter release speed, may be up to 1/60s or more in this case. catwalk will need to be upto 1/200s.

You may:
1. increase the ISO to gain the shutter speed on the same lighting environement, but higher noise.
2. use flash (but background will be dark and subject my overexpose if not done properly like P&S camera).
3. get a faster f/2.8 zoom lens or even faster prime lens like 35mm f/1.4, 50mm f/1.7 or 85mm f/1.4.
4. use continuous multiple shots and hope to get a few right.

It does look slightly back focus on the motorcycle rather than the model though.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Ming
Member Avatar
90609866
zcf
Apr 15 2008, 01:54 PM
get a faster f/2.8 zoom lens or even faster prime lens like 35mm f/1.4, 50mm f/1.7 or 85mm f/1.4

:sweat: This is adding poison ... :P
Ask ... Absorb ... Equip ... Execute
N E X with M I N G HERE ! A P - Ming HERE ! Macro-Ming HERE ! Pano-Ming HERE ! Food ! Food ! Foods ! HERE
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Trigger Happy
Member Avatar
Alpha Jedi Member
bro zcf is right, focus seems to be on the left of the bike.

here's what i do for steadier shots:

1. make sure your shutter speed is higher than your focal length. in this case, 1/20 is too slow for a 30mm focal length. especially when the subject may not be stationary, and if you don't have surgeon's hands.

2. ramp up ISO and/or get a lens with a bigger aperture. OR use flash.

3. use a monopod/ tripod - whichever is more practical - in this case a monopod (or unflexed tripod) would not trip any passer-by.

4. use spot focus to ensure (in this case) the model's face (eyes especially) in in focus. ALSO use the AEL (exposure lock) button to lock your exposure - press AEL, then half-press AF to focus or other way around, whichever works better for you. this lets you see in the viewfinder what your exposure is and whether you have enough light or not.
----------------------------------
Many are culled, few are chosen
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
sulhan
Alphadslr Photo Critique member
Here you go....

Posted Image

The rest here

Go to the Learning Section
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
Go to Next Page
« Previous Topic · Newbie corner & website links · Next Topic »
Add Reply