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Multiple Issues; Where to begin work on 1989 Trooper
Topic Started: Sep 24 2013, 10:04 AM (578 Views)
Shiftlogic
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Hi All, So I just picked up my first real Trooper (had a 1996 but 1st gens are best). She's a 1989 with the 2.6L fuel injected itec in running condition for $600 (Yes i hope to make her carborated one day). She had the head gasket replaced about 15k ago, new fuel pump, new radiator and about 65% on the tires. Known issues were some rust around two of the wheel wells and a spot by the rear passenger window. I knew this was going to be somewhat of a project however it also needs to tow a Gypsy wagon I'm building and is going to be my everyday driver. She passed emissions here in Washington state so I was feeling fairly optimistic about my purchase. Then I took it into Gaynors to have them do an inspection to see what I got myself into. I am a computer guy by trade and I don't normally do a lot of automotive work (This is my project to learn) however I am fairly handy and can fix most things I try to fix (so go easy on this really long post)

So what should be my top priority? or do I sell and pick up another?

Front Axle Shafts need to be replaced - boots failed, joints exposed. (Gaynors cost $800)

Exhaust manifold leak - Gaynors could not confirm because they were afraid to remove the bolts on the heat shield which they said would be guaranteed to break. I do have a spare manifold that was included with purchase. Another way to test?

Multiple oil leaks - nothing specific stated, they wanted to clean it up then see where its coming from. Just keep it filled and I should be ok?

Rusted areas - coat'em in Rust Stop and get on a quick coat of paint before the rains really kick in this fall.

MPG - Wow, I was really surprised on how terrible it seems to be right now. Haven't made it through a tank yet but only got about 100 miles on the first half. Was expecting closed to 20 but prolly around 10 right now.

PS. If Johnny5ive sees this post I just wanted to say Thank you. Your videos are great and really encouraged me to take on this project.
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Edited by Shiftlogic, Sep 24 2013, 10:05 AM.
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johnny5ive
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Ok, here's the low down. Front axle shafts can be run for just about forever with no boots and no grease through, mud, snow, sand, you name it. Do I recommend doing this???? Well... hmmmm... ok, no, for the record I don't but to be perfectly honest I've never repaced my front axle shafts because of it because I just don't feel like spending the time to do it. Secondly, new axles are not very cheap, maybe $125 a piece and can be put in by any monkey with a craftsman tool set, so would I ever pay $800? Never. Exhaust manifold leak is common, probably cracked on the #4 runnner, annoying but not harmful. Go ahead and break the bolts off of the heat shield, who cares, that's what caused the heat to build up and break your manifold in the first place. Manifolds are out there, I've got a few, I think you can get a new chinese casting on Ebay for about $50 shipped (that's what I was told) I received a Chinese manifold in a trade and have been running it for about a year and haven't had any issues. Oil leaks... yeah, that's pretty common too. The only ones to get really concerned about are front or rear main seal and here's why: Typically when those start leaking badly it's because the thrust washers have worn and likely fallen out and the crankshaft is running forward and backward in the journals and destroying the block and crankshaft against each other. When this happens you usually go through about a quart every 150 miles or so. My recommendation on oil leaks is check your oil at the same spot every day, whether it's in the driveway at home, in the parking lot after work, whatever. Get a feel for how much you're losing and unless it's more than a quart between oil changes I wouldn't worry too much about it. If you can figure out where they're coming from and they're easy fixes like valve cover or something, have at it. Oil is critical with these motors so once they start leaking you need to know how much they're leaking so that you can get on a regular schedule of topping it off. Keep the oil filled as much as possible, don't let it ride down on the low mark or the engine's life will be greatly affected. Rust... I came out of the auto body field and once rust starts it's a lost cause, make some cosmetic repairs if you'd like, but I never recommend throwing a bunch of time and money at rust cuz like an iceberg, you're only seeing the 10% that's surfaced. Just drive it and enjoy it. MPG is very unusual. The most common problems are 1)clogged exhaust system (most exhaust shops will do a free inspection and can measure bac pressure to determine if you have a clog) 2)bad coolant temperature sensor. This is kind of a PITA to replace but could save you a lot of money on gas. 3)BIG TIRES are you running anything larger that 30X9.50? 4)Speed. You'll get low 20's if you know how to drive conservatively and keep it around 55-60. Mileage drops off pretty rapidly at high speeds like 18 at 65 MPH 15 at 75 MPH, etc. 4)rear brakes are known to drag, usually from stuck brake cables, so stop setting your e-brake for a while and see if your mileage gets better. Now, all that said, stop going to the mechanic. if you're going to pay somebody to fix your Trooper get with me and let me do it. I can drive to Washington and fix the stuff on your truck for the same price your mechanic is going to charge. You should be able to fix everything on that Trooper by yourself. If you've got a decent set of tools, reasonable intelligence and mechanical ability and some determination it's not that hard. We are all here and act as a community to help each other. I take phone calls 24/7/365 and am glad to help you with any problem you may be having. And I'm sure I'm not the only one, there are a lot of guys who've been wrenching on these things and can offer up advice. If you're going to be in a position to pay a mechanic to fix every problem that you 25 year old truck has you'd save money by just leasing yourself a new Kia. I'm planning a trip to Washington in April, let's keep in touch and if there's anything I can do to help out just let me know.
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Shiftlogic
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Thanks for the info Johnny5ive. I looked up some axle assemblies online (partsgeek and some other site) and it looked like I could pick up some for 55-$80 each (If that truly was the correct part). Although I think I will sit on axle assemblies for now and start tracking down the oil leaks, then replace the coolant temperature sensor along with having the exhaust checked as that is going to drive me nuts on the MPG.

Being able to handle all the repairs on the Trooper is my goal. I really do love driving her and think she is gonna look great pulling my wagon. OR maybe I'll let ya know how my new Kia works out LOL.....thats not gonna happen. Thanks again.
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zudorf
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My motto is "Never give up"....oh, and "Shit, it's the fuel pump again".

Welcome aboard, dude. You have at your beck and call the foremost collection of resources, parts, and advice in the world for performing any repair to a first gen Isuzu Trooper. We let Johnny talk sometimes too. LOL Anyway, roll up your sleeves and dive on in, man. That's what I did about 8 months ago; and it's been quite the ride since. I couldn't have done it without the guidance of J5 mostly. You'd better do what he says or he yells at you. LOL

I like the gypsy trailer. Gives me another thing to tell everybody I'm building.

Good luck, dude. Remember, we're all in this together!

Tim
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AussieAndrew

Sounds like you have all the same issues that I had when I first bought my 91 2.6l.
I had about the same mechanical experience as you. I bought a Hayes manual and found Johnny5ive on YouTube and got stuck in. You probably already figured john is a bloody legend and his videos and help make it worth doing yourself.

CZ boots and joints are fairly easy. The hard part will be pulling the top and bottom ball joints. Go and buy a good ball joint separator, I use one that has a wind down bolt to tension it. Give a good crank down and hit the outer arm of the ball joint to shock it apart.

Not sure what availability is like in the States but I bought a set of bolt on extractors to replace my exhaust manifold and they are awesome.

As for MPG.... John is preaching truth about speed. They get thirsty over 60mph but it also helps to know that in my experience, the top half of the gauge is usually only about a 1/3 of the actual tank.

Good luck mate. And keep us posted!
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ewillis
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Well my ??? is are the CV's really bad or just missing the boots? Boots are fairly inexpensive. As for the ball joint tool, i have never needed one on a first gen personally, I let the torsion bars do my dirty work along with a BFH (Big Friggin Hammer)
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Shiftlogic
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RE: ewillis - notes on my paperwork simply states "Boots have failed, Joints exposed". Not sure I would be able to tell you if they were bad as i generally "contract" auto work out :) Going to start with that coolant temp sensor which thanks to johnny's ITEC video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5crAC5kpZN8) I now know where it is located and what a pain it is going to be to change. I also noticed that some of my vacuum lines are disconnected, again thanks to that video. moving on to the exhaust i found some bolt extractors (thanks AussieAndrew for that idea) I will use to remove that.
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AussieAndrew

Shiftlogic
Sep 25 2013, 01:40 PM
Going to start with that coolant temp sensor which thanks to johnny's ITEC video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5crAC5kpZN8) I now know where it is located and what a pain it is going to be to change.

Not sure if the LHD troopers are the same but when I changed my temp sensor I just used a 12" extension and slid it in under the itec. I may have helped that I have one of those awesome wobble socket sets which helped with the angle.
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johnny5ive
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I'm with Ernie... I wasn't going to say anything, but I use the BFH method as well. I've never used a joint separator and I've probably done a few hundred in my lifetime.
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johnny5ive
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Also, yes as Ernie stated you could just remove the C/V axles, overhaul them, clean them and maybe they just need to be greased and new boots installed. It is possible, probably even probable. I think once you price out a set of boots and compare the time and effort of disassembling, cleaning and re-greasing them you may find it's worth the few extra dollars just to replace the whole unit... I'm a cheap bastard so I'd probably spend 5 hours to save myself 20 bucks...
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