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| Tweet Topic Started: Dec 1 2013, 05:34 PM (1,484 Views) | |
| EricJette | Dec 3 2013, 09:04 AM Post #21 |
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Tim, Some of your symptoms, like the bucking , hesitation, in coasting reminds me of what I was experiencing on my trip to Greenville when I ripped the part out and slapped it on the air cleaner...John always gives me grief about my "love" for emmission controls...well that was a mixture control valve from a Saab 9000 that I was hoping would work better than my old one...which fortunately I brought and re-installed. It worked fine at my altitude but for some reason it started dumping a huge ammount of air into the intake manifold and I'm wondering if you have anything on the ITEC that would possibly do that. Wish I could be of some help, but I don't know squat about "spaggetti"... |
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| zudorf | Dec 3 2013, 04:09 PM Post #22 |
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Thanks Eric. I was wondering about the air mixture myself. It seemed to smooth out while I was messing with the idle screw. Today she ran about the same as yesterday. Still lots of power. Still starting hard. Still bucking when I let off the gas...sometimes. I did replace the distributor cap and rotor button this morning on the way to work. After work, I swapped out the distributor. Still acting the same. Vacuum test was the same as it was before this all started. It sputters a little when the engine does; but when the throttle is applied, it fluctuates as it should and returns to normal. Now, if anyone that was in Alabama will remember, when I set y'all's timing with my vacuum gauge, I remarked at how your engines revved when I took the cap off the vacuum port and mine didn't. Guess what's happening now? Mine revs when I remove the cap on the vacuum port. So there's another symptom to think about. Sorry. Just dawned on me. |
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| zudorf | Dec 3 2013, 05:26 PM Post #23 |
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After spending a few minutes searching posts on the planet that described identical symptoms, I went out and hosed some WD version of PB down the Idle Air Control Valve tube. I'll let her sit a while and go out and crank her up. |
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| EricJette | Dec 3 2013, 06:48 PM Post #24 |
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I'd check any and all vac hoses connected to the intake manifold as well, could be just a split end on one. Mine ran great with gobs of power with no miss, but would buck on decel and initially as throttle applied, same as your's is doing. You fouled plugs may be another issue, I haven't pulled mine since I got back but it's been running sweet, other than an occasional slight hesitation off the line sometimes when cold...which is why I replaced the old valve in the first place. I'm just going to get rid of it altogether and cap the vac port to it as well as the intake side. It may run a wee rich during decelleration without it, but probably not enough to cause a problem. Were all your plugs fouled equally badly? if so you could simply be dumping too much fuel in and that would cause blue smoke to be produced...especially if it was missing and not fully burning properly. I'd put in new plugs when you think you've got this problem licked, immediately take it out on the road at highway speed for 5- 10 minutes...pull over at a safe place and shut it off without letting it idle, pull a plug and inspect it's color. White would be lean, dark tan or brown will be rich, light tan will be perfect mix. You won't see much build up of course, but enough to tell the color. Then you'll be able to tell if you might have an injector problem or other issue like oil fouling etc. I think if you had something serious going on internally in the engine, you probably wouldn't have periods where it ran good, as it would more than likely would run consistanly badly. If the plugs were only fouled on one or two cylinders, then you have other issues to contend with that may be contributing to the current problem. |
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| zudorf | Dec 3 2013, 07:53 PM Post #25 |
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The plugs were fouled equally. It was a black baked on crust. Dry. Patrick and I were messing around with it yesterday. He pulled #1 plug wire and there was no reaction. Pulling #2 thru #4, however, caused a noticeable drop in performance. I held the wire to ground and revved it up. As soon as I started revving, it had spark. I can't for the life of me think of a component that controlled spark to the #1 plug only. Just the wire and it's brand new. Going out now to start her and see if the IAC lube did anything. I know, I'm impatient. I'm getting a solid 20 inches of vacuum....when she's running right. That would tell me there are no vacuum leaks; but I'll look around again. I really just need to put a damned carburetor on her and be done with this touchy ITEC bullshit. |
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| johnny5ive | Dec 3 2013, 08:17 PM Post #26 |
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Founder
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Tim doesn't like to hear "do a compression test"... He'd prefer to sit in the house by the fire and try to "just figure it out"... If we all just sit here and smoke enough and talk about this we can figure it out without ever leaving the easy chair... come on now, we can do this...
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| EricJette | Dec 4 2013, 12:02 AM Post #27 |
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LOL!!! John, that 2.3 you pulled out of my trooper and took with you was drinking a quart of oil every 300 miles and yet the plugs were a normal color...I could never understand why that was. It wasn't leaking that much, and I could smell the oil in the exhaust, the cat when hot had this awful smell, and I was getting smoke on start up when cold ( valve guides and seals worn I guess). But "armchair mechanics" like myself just look on the optimal bright side of things and just hope it isn't catastrophic...LOL!! I guess you could say "Life is good and then you get a compression check to see if its viable."??? LOL!!! |
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| zudorf | Dec 4 2013, 05:47 AM Post #28 |
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I got something you can compression check. Anyway, much better last night when I ran her after the soak. Haven't started it this morning yet. Gotta sit here and think about it, drink my coffee, and think about it some more...... |
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| zudorf | Dec 4 2013, 06:04 AM Post #29 |
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Well, it didn't take AS many cranks to start. Idled rough until I ran her up to about 1500 RPM and smoothed out. Out there idling fine right now. We'll see how she drives. Might get a chance to do a compression check today. Not sure if my 3 year old can hold the gauge and sit on the wheel well while I crank it. Oh and Piper turned 3 yesterday. She's growing up soooo fast. |
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| ewillis | Dec 4 2013, 08:13 AM Post #30 |
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Like i said several pages ago...................Run the compression (with a good gauge) and do a vacuum test. Once you strip away engine management systems and electronic crap, they all work on the same principal. The comp numbers are important but what the vacuum gauge tells you is equally important. If your engine is breathing the way it should, you'll know but the comp number. The vacuum gauge will point you in other directions depending on what it is telling us. |
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2:51 AM Jul 11
